Indian skin, typically classified under Fitzpatrick skin types III to VI, possesses unique characteristics due to genetic makeup, environmental exposure, and cultural practices. These factors influence how Indian skin responds to environmental stressors, handles pigmentation issues, and undergoes aging, making it distinct from lighter skin types and necessitating customised skincare solutions. This article delves deeply into the science behind Indian skin’s structure, common concerns, and how these factors inform effective skincare strategies.
1. Melanin Content and Pigmentation Concerns
Indian skin contains higher levels of melanin, primarily eumelanin, which offers natural protection against ultraviolet (UV) radiation. This melanin absorbs and scatters UV rays, reducing the risk of DNA damage and sunburn but increasing the likelihood of pigmentation issues like melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and peri orbital hyperpigmentation (POH). Eumelanin concentration impacts both skin colour and reactivity to inflammation, leading to pigmentation that can be persistent and challenging to treat. Research has shown that pigment-related signalling, such as through protease-activated receptor-2 (PAR-2), stimulates melanocyte activity in response to inflammation, exacerbating hyperpigmentation risks, particularly in sun-exposed areas, like India. Treatment
Recommendations: Ingredients like niacinamide in JAL PAREE Daily Hydration Serum, vitamin C, kojic acid in CHAAND KA TUKDA Vitamin C Glow Drops and broad spectrum sunscreens DHOOP KI RANI SPF 50+ Sunscreen Mist can help prevent and manage pigmentation by reducing inflammation, controlling melanin production, and protecting against UV exposure. Niacinamide, for instance, inhibits melanosome transfer, effectively preventing further darkening of affected areas.
2. Acne and Pore Size
Acne vulgaris is a common concern in Indian skin, often leading to PIH as inflammation stimulates increased melanocyte activity. Studies on sebaceous gland activity suggest that Indian skin produces more sebum than lighter skin types, which can lead to visibly larger pores and a higher incidence of acne. Hormonal variations also influence sebum production, explaining why acne is common during adolescence and early adulthood. A key challenge is that treating acne-induced PIH often requires a dual approach, as Indian skin is prone to both oiliness and pigmentation.
Recommendations: Niacinamide as present in JAL PAREE Daily Hydration Serum is an effective treatment as they reduce sebaceous gland activity and control pigmentation without over-drying the skin and controlling pore size. Mild cleansing containing PHA - gluconalactone in our BEFIKAR BEGUM Gentle Face Cleanser have also shown efficacy in reducing PIH.
3. Aging Patterns and Sun Protection Needs
Indian skin generally shows fewer visible signs of aging in the early years due to its higher melanin content, which protects the dermis from UV damage, delaying the formation of wrinkles and fine lines. However, Indian skin is prone to issues like volume loss, sagging, and pigmentation as it ages. Research highlights that melanin acts as a protective factor against photoaging but does not prevent the impact of UV-induced oxidative stress, which can damage dermal fibers over time. Skincare
Recommendations: Using antioxidants like vitamin C and E as in our CHAAND KA TUKDA Vitamin C Glow Drops, along with sunscreens such as our DHOOP KI RANI SPF 50+ Sunscreen Mist offering broad-spectrum protection, can help prevent oxidative damage and support skin elasticity.
4. Barrier Function and Hydration Needs
Indian skin often displays robust barrier function, especially in humid environments, which aids in retaining moisture and shielding against pollutants. However, this barrier can be compromised by seasonal shifts and urban pollution, leading to increased trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) in drier conditions. Studies on the skin’s stratum corneum reveal that although Indian skin has a thick epidermal layer, it may possess fewer natural moisturising factors (NMFs), which impacts its ability to maintain hydration.
Recommendations: Moisturising Serums containing glycerin (in our case even our cleanser does - BEFIKAR BEGUM Gentle Face Cleanser) and hyaluronic acid as in JAL PAREE Daily Hydration Serum help repair the skin barrier and maintain moisture levels. These humectants and lipids support the skin’s natural defences without causing greasiness, making them suitable for diverse climates. Traditional ingredients like turmeric, and aloe vera are also effective for their hydrating and anti-inflammatory properties, which Poshan uses abundantly.
5. Cultural Preferences and Herbal Remedies
Indian skincare has long utilised botanical super foods like turmeric, neem, and saffron, recognised for their anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant benefits. Turmeric (Curcuma longa), specifically, contains curcuminoids, which exhibit skin-brightening and anti-inflammatory properties by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production. This aligns with cultural preferences for natural, multi-functional ingredients that address common skin issues without causing irritation.
Application in Modern Skincare: Incorporating botanical ingredients such as turmeric, and we take it one step further to use turmeric bio-ferments in our CHAAND KA TUKDA Vitamin C Glow Drops into daily routines can enhance skin tone and provide gentle exfoliation. Research supports turmeric's efficacy in reducing melanin synthesis, making it beneficial for pigmentation issues commonly faced by Indian skin.
6. Sensitive Skin and Environmental Reactivity
A significant portion of the Indian population reports sensitive skin, often characterised by heightened responses to environmental factors such as UV radiation, pollution, and certain chemicals. Sensitive skin symptoms include tingling, redness, and dryness, often due to the skin’s reactivity to changes in climate and exposure to irritants. The prevalence of sensitive skin in Indian populations highlights the importance of formulations that cater to low-irritation needs.
Formulation Guidelines: All our formulas are sensitive skin compatible! Gentle, fragrance-free cleansers such as our BEFIKAR BEGUM Gentle Face Cleanser and hypoallergenic moisturising serums are ideal for managing sensitive skin. Ingredients like aloe vera and panthenol which is again in our BEFIKAR BEGUM Gentle Face Cleanser which support barrier function, are particularly effective in soothing and protecting sensitive skin against external stressors.
7. Periorbital Hyperpigmentation (POH)
Periorbital hyperpigmentation, often referred to as dark circles, is a prevalent issue among Indian individuals. POH is caused by several factors, including genetics, lifestyle, and structural characteristics of the skin around the eyes. It can present as pigmented (brown), vascular (blue/purple), or mixed types. Due to thinner skin around the eyes, blood vessels become more prominent, creating a shadowing effect. Genetic predispositions also mean that POH can be difficult to treat effectively without a multi-faceted approach.
Recommendations: Topical ingredients like hyaluronic acid, caffeine and peptides (in our AANKHON KA TARA 360° Eye Serum) and vitamin C (CHAAND KA TUKDA Vitamin C Glow Drops) are beneficial for pigmented and vascular types of POH. Sun protection and antioxidants also play essential roles in managing POH over the long term.
8. Regional and Climatic Adaptation
Indian skin has adapted to diverse climatic conditions across India, with variations in skin characteristics between individuals from different regions. In humid areas, for example, the skin exhibits higher sebum production, which aids in natural hydration. However, those in drier regions may experience increased TEWL, contributing to dryness and heightened sensitivity. Environmental pollutants in urban areas can exacerbate pigmentation and aging, requiring tailored approaches based on geographical location.
Recommendations: For individuals in humid climates, lightweight quick absorbing textures (all our products respect this) and sebum control products are recommended. Regular use of antioxidant and anti-pollution ingredients (such as our JAL PAREE Daily Hydration Serum) is beneficial for urban dwellers to combat pollution induced oxidative stress. Our sunscreen is weightless and watery for that non-chip chip feeling - DHOOP KI RANI SPF 50+ Sunscreen Mist.
9. Dermatological and Genetic Conditions
Certain dermatological conditions like atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, and vitiligo are more prevalent among individuals with Indian skin, with studies suggesting a genetic component in these conditions. These conditions may be exacerbated by environmental triggers common in urban areas. Genetics also play a role in conditions like POH, where a family history increases susceptibility, necessitating skincare solutions that address both genetic predispositions and environmental influences.
Recommendations: For genetic conditions, dermatologists often recommend a combination of medical treatments and lifestyle adjustments. Ingredients like colloidal oatmeal, ceramides, and anti-inflammatory botanicals, which Poshan formulations use tonnes of, can help manage symptoms, while avoiding known irritants like harsh detergents and synthetic fragrances reduces flare-ups.
10. Indian Skin Microbiome and Dysbiosis (The Most Important One and the One we at Poshan really address)
The Indian skin microbiome is as distinct and crucial as our physiology and environmental factors in influencing skin health. The microbiome, a community of microorganisms living on the skin, plays an essential role in protecting against pathogens, regulating immune responses, and maintaining skin barrier function. However, various factors specific to Indian culture, lifestyle, and environment contribute to a unique and sometimes challenging skin microbiome profile. Indian cuisine, rich in spices and fermented foods, influences the gut-skin axis, indirectly impacting the skin microbiome by modulating gut health and immune responses. Additionally, traditional beauty practices—such as oil massages and herbal face packs— affect the microbial balance on the skin's surface. Yet, the stress-driven lifestyle common in urban Indian settings can disrupt microbiome diversity, exacerbating skin sensitivity and inflammation. Studies show that as an ethnicity, Indians tend to have a less diverse skin microbiome, including a lower abundance of beneficial microbes like Cutibacterium, a commensal bacterium known for its anti-inflammatory properties. Furthermore, India’s humid and often polluted environments create conditions favouring opportunistic strains such as Staphylococcus and Corynebacterium, which can disturb the microbiome balance and lead to dysbiosis. This imbalance correlates with a higher incidence of skin issues, including acne, eczema, and dermatitis, as these disruptive strains proliferate in the skin’s microenvironment.
Recommendations: To support a healthy microbiome, skincare routines for Indian skin should prioritise gentle, pH-balanced cleansers (our BEFIKAR BEGUM Gentle Face Cleanser is pH 5.6) and probiotic-rich formulations, all our formulations in THE POSHAN PACK use Skinbiotics(TM) our in-house proprietary probiotic blends that help balance the microbiome, even our rinse-off BEFIKAR BEGUM Gentle Face Cleanser. JAL PAREE Daily Hydration Serum contains a blend of four different probiotics (3 strains of bacteria and 1 fungus) These products can help nurture beneficial microbes while keeping pathogenic strains in check, promoting balanced, resilient skin.
Indian skin’s distinct combination of higher melanin content, environmental adaptations, and genetic predispositions requires a specialised approach to skincare, with an emphasis on sun protection, pigmentation management, and consistent hydration. Embracing these differences allows for more effective skincare solutions that respect Indian skin’s unique composition and cultural heritage, while preventing common concerns.
